Howdy. I am sharing my recent experience for a new to me RDX. I recently purchased a 2013 RDX AWD with 185k miles for $10.5k. It was a single owner vehicle, always garaged, and with in the previous year, the owner replaced all the tires, did the timing belt and water pump repair. Interior was immaculate, except driver visor would not stay up. I took that apart and fixed it to stay up...there are many video hacks on how to do this. On mine, I could have avoided taking it apart if I knew how it was made internally. There is a metal clam shell that unsnapped, thus the tension was not on it to close on the flat portion of the internal rod. Recommendation, find the clam shell by feel and squeeze it shut with a vice grip or something you feel comfortable with,,,if possible, spray some lubricant into the rod that leads into the visor from the point of pivot.
If you remove the visor, there is a risk that reattaching the visor to the roof of the car will be difficult and you may damage that assembly point, then you will end up with a visor that can fully drop into your lap....Good luck.

Now for the wheel bearings. I heard a humming sound probably a 1000 miles later, so around 186500 miles. It was a familiar sound that I experienced on my high mileage accord a decade ago and my odyssey van that had over 200k miles from a few years ago. It was the wheel bearings in the rear. I called my mechanic for a quote to replace both rears....$800+ dollars. So, I thought, let me you tube and see how difficult. Not a hard task. The most difficult thing was to find the correct torque for the rear spindle axle nut on a 2013 AWD RDX. I called multiple Acura dealerships and Honda. I finally got a hold of a guy in service that would ask a tech....the shop was in California...not sharing the shop cause I dont want to burden them with more calls...I don't live in CA. The torque was 133 Ft lbs. I called the Bearing and HUB supplier that I bought the Hub from and their documentation conflicted as well....but we settled on 133 ft lbs.
Torque for Rear Drive Train
Hub bolts was 72ft lbs
Brake caliper bracket was 65 ft lbs
Brake Guide Pins was 30 ft lbs
Torque for Wheel Studs was 80 ft lbs.
Part info: I should have bought a new axle nut...I did not. I may later..
Hub: Bought from RockAuto...with shipping and tax, both hubs, with new bearings was $194.37.
PN was 512501...Mfg/distributor was Moog. I bought a new hub with bearings. I borrowed tools from Autozone. You need a 32MM socket for the Axle Nut. You may want to get the Hub puller. One came out fine, the other hub needed pulled out with the tool.
Method Notes: You tube how to's.
Cheat Notes:
Install your spare and lower to provide opposing directional force to loosen the axel nut....break it loose, then raise car back up to complete the process with out the wheel installed.
Tools: Torque driver....Don't use a torque driver on its extreme setting. Use it for 80% of its adjustable window. Good luck....don't confuse the Brake Caliper Bracket bolts with the Hub bolts when reassumbling...luckily I only did that on one bolt and it was an easy one to remove from hub....I would have been more upset if it was one of the bottom hub bolts....It is about 2hrs per side for a novice like me...that is including putting my tools back up and car is completely back together.