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cylinder head torque specs, and some!

Old May 12, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #1  
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&lt; src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/&gt; </>Hey all! I'm new to this particular forum, and to be honest, never really had a itch to visit one of these types of medias. I like it so far. Cool stuff goin on here. Well, to get to my remarks and questions... First, I called an Acura dealer to get some torque specs for a head job that I'm going to put back together and the idiotthat spoke to me said to look online for that info 'causethey didn't have that info at the dealer! A DEALER!!! For me, networking aboutbad dealers is easy but I won't go that rout.


I'm working on a 99 Integra GS non v-tech DOHC 1.8L engine, in my garage at home. With no books or dealer access to info it gets difficult to get things done. General repair is easy, but when you need spec info, that is where it gets dicey.


The torquespecs I need, if possible, is for the intake and exhaust manifolds, the cam bridge boltsand the head bolts. I know that the head bolts are tightened in2 to 3sequencesstarting from the middle counter clock wise. The problem is that I don't know what to tightenall of themto. I would appreciate some help from knowledgeable people.From what I've seen so far, you all are on point with the tech stuff.


Thanks, Frank the original BLACK MONKEY. &lt; =text/&gt; _uacct = "UA-939292-41"; urchinTracker(); </>
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Old May 13, 2008 | 08:33 AM
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Hhmmmm not to be the bringer of bad news but do you really want numbers from someone whom you dont know there credentials?

i can get you the numbers and quirks if you like.

but i would sudjest getting a book with those specs.

that dealer will give you the number to helm pubications and you can buy a factory/dealer repair manual.

or even a mitchel/hays manual should have that info for you as well.
 
Old May 14, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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Thanks, acuralegend. You have a good point there. Finally got whatI needed from a good buddy of mine in New York City. Put it together, double checked the timing and, lowe and behold, it has secondary problems. It has a serious sputter and misfire codes. I triple checked my work on the timing and every thing is dead nuts. I also checked the injector spray onto a piece ofcard board box, with some help, and found the injectorspraynot looking right.I put some injector cleaner into the fuel tank and am going to physically clean the injectors to see if that clears the hard start and rough run.


Before the car came to me, it was running like it was only firing on one cylinder. The valves were clearly audible and the machine shop verified 4 bent valves. Amazing to think that it got to my house that way. It's a very good testament to Honda/Acura quality and durability! Any way, thanks for trying... and I will be visiting more often to this site... it looks good so far.
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I see that people got their head on straight. That's whatI like.
 
Old May 15, 2008 | 10:59 PM
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I think you need to take a step back and try to figure out what happened to cause 4 bent valves. were they all on 1 cylinder? Do you know the person you got the car from? Did the engine bay look all dicked with? Was there a boost attempt on this engine with stock internals? Or is it just old and worn out. Don't fight this motor to hard, a used one w/ low miles should be less than 600$, depending on where you live.
 
Old May 17, 2008 | 12:50 AM
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sweet well im glad your on your way to figuring this 1 out.

gummed up injectors...may want to change out that fuel filter too.(just to be safe)

then back to basics. plugs/cap/rotor/wires/

recheck dist timing.

seeing bad injector flow. do a fuel pressure test.

had 4 bent valves. do a cylinder leak down test. (to make sure every thing is nice and tight)
speaking of tight...are those valves to tight??? (that leak down test will answer that for ya)

 
Old May 19, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks for the info, guys. I did that leak down test and it turned out to be the valves. Not that the valves were bad, mind you. They just needed adjustment: .003-.005 on the intake side and .006-.008 on the exhaust side. Between the codes, p0300, p0301 and p0303, and the leak down test, and a compression test,therewas no question as to what had to be done. This particular year and model doesn't have an EGR system so that was a no brainer for diagnosing the random miss on all four cylinders and the #1 and #3 misfire.


You guys know your stuff. Don'tdown play your talent. LOL! The car is running smooth now. gave it back to the owner last week on wednesday. Apparently, the car was sitting for a month before he brought it to me. Funny how things work. Now he's telling every one about how great I am with cars and all. I'm glad he's happy with his ride.


I know my limits and as I've said... I can only do so much with out books and electricalschematics to fix big issues. I can speculate what can be wrong anddo a few things to diagnose what the possible problem is but with out dealer specs it gets tough. Ever thing has a set parameter in cars, from electrical out put to resistance readings.Torque specifications including.


Again, thanks a lot forlending your ears to this issue of mine.It did come in handy. I think I'm going to invest in Mitchells or anAll- Data software suite for my lap top sothat I won't have to have this sort of issue in the future. I'm sorta' behind the times, in away. I think it's the old school mentality. That ends today, though.


I like visiting this site now.
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Old May 21, 2008 | 11:26 PM
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Sweet! glad ya got the car running good. The subscriptions on those data bases are very cheap if you are working on multiple types of cars. when you are working with that software print out the pages you need before you start. greasy/dirty fingers on a laptop will gum it up quick and the small metal shaving can short your keyboard. If you don't have a printer, put a clear plastic trash bag around your laptop.
 
Old May 24, 2008 | 10:36 AM
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&lt; src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/&gt; </>No doubt, AKinDen. I haven't had that bad luck yet, thankfully. With the amount of work that actually comes through my hands it wouldn't be cost effective for me to purchase software at this moment. I've had to rethink my options with the pros and cons listed in front of me. Things are not looking good in the pockets...With the economy the way it is and soaring gas prices, people are not as willing to put money into repair and maintenance as often as they would like. I live in Ct. and things are extremely pricey, as of late. A gallon of regular fuel is at $4.10, at last look. I can't blame people for the way things are. I'm sorta cutting back on some luxuries as well. Things will bounce back to normal, but notsoon enough for my liking. I at least have some time to install my lowering kit on my 97 Rav4. That's a plus, I guess. &lt; =text/&gt; _uacct = "UA-939292-41"; urchinTracker(); </>
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