Weird Electrical Gremlins 07 RDX
 

Lately, after starting the car, drive about 50
ft, the entertainment system shuts down and restarts with a big “pop” from the rear sub. Sometimes, this is also accompanied by the brake or abs warning light coming on, a complete lack of acceleration for about 1/2 a second. Also have seen VSA and airbag lights appear. Most times lights can be removed by disconnecting the battery for 10+ minutes, or they just go away. Codes off the OBD have been cleared and come back ( ABS, Transmission, BTE connection). For the most part, these problems have been random, but now more frequent. Only thing I haven’t tried is unplugging the entertainment Amp below the middle console. Any of this sound familiar to anyone? Local garage said they can’t diagnose this, take it to Acura. One more variable- the entertainment system shuts down started about 2 days after I plugged in the OBD tracker from Progressive. I removed it, but problem persists.

How old is the battery? I ask becuase I once had very erratic startup issues with a 2013 Honda Accord. The battery was about 4 years old but tested fine at several places but all the places used a hand held test device. The Honda dealer said I needed to have the torque converter rotated one bolt hole at a cost of $1200.. Yes, there actually is a TSB on this! Anyway, I took the car to an independent shop that had one of the load bank battery testers. The battery failed miserably. It was replaced and I haven't had any issues for 3 years.

The battery is less than a year old, and yes, tests fine at AutoZone. But… recent check at shop said battery failed because they tested for 685 cc amps, but battery is rated 550 cc amps. The shop said that they tested at 685 because that is what the OEM recommends for the battery installed to be at.

You use the terminology “cc” but there really are two tests, neither of which are “cc”. CCA is defined as the amperage a battery can supply at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage above 7.2V. That measurement is usually done by the manufacturer because of the temperature needed. Testing CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) at high temperatures can be misleading becuase of the higher test condition. The 2nd test is designated with two letters (as you used). It is called “CA” and gauges power at 32 F for general starting in moderate climates, while CCA evaluates power at 0 F.

So one question is which test was really done? What if any things may be at hand to get some sense of the battery condition? Do you have a voltmeter? Can you leave the battery on a charger overnight and then start the car and see if the symptom tend to go away? Are the terminals clean? Check the ground strap where it fastens to the chassis.