O.K. I POSTED THE OTHER DAY WITH A PROBLEM. THE CAR STARTED SHUTTING OFF, BUT WOULD RE-CRANK WITH NO PROBLEM. THIS HAPPENED FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS, ABOUT 3-4 TIMES A WEEK. THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN NOTHING, WOULD NOT CRANK AT ALL. WELL I TRIED ALL THE FUSES, NO PROBS THERE. SO I CHECKED THE FUEL PUMP RELAY IN THE TRUNK, LOCATED RIGHT ABOVE THE FUEL TANK, RELAY WAS CLICKING ON AND OFF WHEN I TRIED TO START THE ENGINE. THEN I PULLED THE RELAY FROM HARNESS AND CHECKED VOLTAGE, I WAS GETTING AROUND 7 TO 8 VDC. SO THEN I PULLED THE FUEL PUMP AND REPLACED IT, SAME THING NOTHING. THEN I HOOKED A 12V DIRECT SOURCE POWER TO BOTH THE OLD AND NEW FUEL PUMP, BOTH WORKED FINE. I CALLED A LOT OF IMPORT SHOPS AROUND TOWN (BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA.) JUST ABOUT EVERYONE TOLD ME IT WAS THE IGNITION SWITCH. BUT I RULED THAT OUT BECAUSE THE ENGINE WOULD RUN AND STAY RUNNING WHEN I USED STARTER FLUID. THE REBUILD MANUAL SAYS IF THE IGNITION SWITCH IS BAD THAT THE CAR WILL NOT CONTINUE TO RUN. ANYWAYS THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT IS, THE MAIN PGMFI RELAY HAD TO BE REPLACED. THAT RELAY CONTAINS 2 RELAYS ONE OF WITCH IS THE FUEL PUMP RELAY AKA FUEL PUMP RESISTOR. I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE ON THE OLD ONE AND IT HAD ABOUT 7 VDC, THE NEW ONE READS 12 VDC, SO I GUESS THAT A BAD RELAY CAN STILL SHOW VOLTAGE. THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO GAVE IMPUT ON MY PROB.